{"id":11818,"date":"2008-06-12T12:59:00","date_gmt":"2008-06-12T12:59:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/production.ou.org\/life\/other\/bart_kancigor_the_aromas_of_backyard_barbecues\/"},"modified":"2017-04-14T04:47:57","modified_gmt":"2017-04-14T09:47:57","slug":"bart_kancigor_the_aromas_of_backyard_barbecues","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ou.org\/life\/food\/bart_kancigor_the_aromas_of_backyard_barbecues\/","title":{"rendered":"The Aromas of Backyard Barbecues"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"image\"In 1924 President Calvin Coolidge recommended the celebration of Father\u2019s Day, but it wasn\u2019t until 1972, during the Nixon administration, that it was signed into law as an official national holiday. The third Sunday in June is perfect grilling weather, and aromas of backyard barbecues waft over fences and through open windows as we celebrate Dad\u2019s special day.<\/p>\n

When I want to know about grilling, I consult Steven Raichlen, author of \u201cThe Barbecue! Bible\u201d and \u201cHow to Grill\u201d (Workman Publishing) and host of Primal Grill on PBS.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy dad was a businessman, and from him I inherited my business sense, or what little I have,\u201d he told me. \u201cHe never lets anyone pick up a check and is a good tipper. Like my father-in-law used to say, for 10 bucks you can be a sport. I’ve tried to do this in my life, too.\u201d<\/p>\n

But it was his mom, Raichlen claims, not his dad, who was in charge of the grill when he was growing up. \u201cHer approach to grilling was robust if not terrifying,\u201d he told me. \u201cShe’d light the grill in a Vesuvian whomp with gasoline \u2013 do not try this at home \u2013 and char slabs of steak until coal black on the outside and just shy of still mooing inside. She called this Pittsburgh rare.\u201d<\/p>\n

According to Raichlen’s rule: “If something tastes good baked, fried, saut\u00e9ed, steamed or even raw, it probably tastes even better grilled,” and to prove it he traveled to 25 countries on five continents researching \u201cThe Barbecue! Bible,\u201d taking four years to write it. And with four million copies in print in 14 languages, this award-winning encyclopedic study of global grilling has now spawned the 10th Anniversary edition, bigger, bolder and better than ever.<\/p>\n

Interestingly Raichlen wrote “Healthy Jewish Cooking” (Viking) during the same period.<\/p>\n

“I was a restaurant critic for a major city magazine in the ’80’s, eating out constantly, and developed a cholesterol problem,” recalled Raichlen, so he began reducing the fat in his favorite recipes.<\/p>\n

“The leap from healthy Jewish cooking to grilling may seem a stretch,\u201d he said, \u201cbut there was a lot of overlap between the two books. The Middle East is one of the real hotbeds of grilling expertise. Barbecue is not part of the Ashkenazi tradition. I don’t ever remember watching my grandfather grill, for example. But in Israel grilling is a national pastime, an art, dare I say even a fetish.\u201d<\/p>\n

And what\u2019s on the grill for Father\u2019s Day? How about brisket!<\/p>\n

“For holidays we are probably the only Jewish family in Miami to barbecue its brisket instead of braising it in the oven with dried fruits,\u201d he said. Grill the beef slowly over low, indirect heat, and you will \u201ctransform one of the toughest, most ornery parts of the steer into tender, meaty perfection,\u201d writes Raichlen. Serve it with a half-and-half mixture of his sweet Basic Barbecue Sauce and tart North Carolina version. But be careful.<\/p>\n

Barbecue sauce is a \u201cmuch-abused condiment,\u201d according to David Rosengarten, editor of the \u201cRosengarten Report\u201d (www.rosengartenreport.com), the information-packed subscription newsletter that rates the best in food and wine. Many cooks use barbecue sauce as a marinade and brush it on during cooking, but because of its sugar content, this usually spells burnt meat.<\/p>\n

\u201cBarbecue sauce is sauce<\/i> \u2013 meaning a tasty, runny liquid placed on meat after it\u2019s cooked,\u201d Rosengarten writes. Use it as they do in Texas, at the table.<\/p>\n

Coincidentally, although I didn\u2019t know him then, Rosengarten grew up in my hometown, Belle Harbor, New York. From my house one could look across Jamaica Bay and see the New York skyline; from his, the Atlantic Ocean. So it was doubly exciting for me to talk to the former host\/chef of the Food Network\u2019s \u201cTaste\u201d and reminisce about Far Rockaway High School, Cairo\u2019s pizza and his father, who was his inspiration.<\/p>\n

\u201cAt least twice a week,\u201d Rosengarten recalled, \u201cmy dad, no matter what season, would call my mom as he was leaving the office so that she could estimate when to put the charcoal on the grill on the terrace facing the beach. He’d walk in, drop off his copy of the Post, and pick up a platter of steak or lamb chops.\u201d<\/p>\n

Rosengarten credits his father with nurturing his love of fine food and obsession to get it right. \u201cHe and I would sit down at the kitchen table and discuss the menu, make a list, go shopping, and then have ourselves a grand old time cooking.\u201d He recalled. \u201cWhile other kids were helping their dads fix the car, I was helping my dad fix dinner. He was crazier about food than any person I’ve ever met in my life, including me.\u201d<\/p>\n

In 2004 Rosengarten won a James Beard award for his cookbook \u201cIt\u2019s All<\/i> American Food\u201d (with an emphasis on the \u201cAll\u201d), a collection of over 400 ethnic, regional and classic dishes that make up our national cuisine. And what better way to honor Dad than with the simple, down-home foods we all love.<\/p>\n

Take French fries. Why don\u2019t they taste at home like they do in restaurants, Rosengarten wondered. \u201cHome fries are slick. I wanted to duplicate those \u2018nubbly,\u2019 little microscopic pockets that give texture and crunch to restaurant fries. I\u2019d always done the two fryings. I thought, what if I boiled them first to soften them. It worked. Sure, you can drizzle an exotic oil on them. I’m not interested. I wanted to make a better French fry, and these are the best home French fries I’ve ever had.\u201d<\/p>\n

Rosengarten\u2019s zippy Mustard Slaw rounds out the meal. Happy Father\u2019s Day to all the dads!<\/p>\n

Judy Bart Kancigor is the author of \u201cCOOKING JEWISH: 532 Great Recipes from the Rabinowitz Family\u201d (Workman) and can be found on the web at www.cookingjewish.com<\/a>.<\/i><\/p>\n

Texas-Style\u00a0Barbecued Brisket<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

10 to 12 servings<\/p>\n

In Texas beef is king\u2014especially beef brisket, which comes moist and smoky and tender enough to cut with a fork. (Not that any self-respecting Texas barbecue buff would use a fork.) Barbecued brisket is simultaneously one of the easiest and most challenging recipes in the world of barbecue. Easy because it requires only one main ingredient: brisket (even the rub is optional). Challenging because pit masters spend years learning the right combination of smoke (lots), heat (low), and time (measured in half days rather than hours) to transform one of the toughest, most ornery parts of the steer into tender, meaty perfection.<\/em><\/p>\n

Over the years, I\u2019ve found that two things help above all: choosing the right cut of -brisket\u2014namely, untrimmed, with a thick sheath of fat\u2014and then cooking the brisket in a shallow pan. The pan keeps the juices from dripping onto the fire and the meat from drying out, while allowing for the maximum smoke penetration from the top. A whole brisket (the sort cooked by a restaurant) weighs eighteen to twenty pounds. Here I call for a partially trimmed brisket\u2014a cut weighing five to six pounds. Do not attempt to make this with a two-pound trimmed, fatless brisket; it will turn out much too dry.<\/em>
\n To achieve the requisite smoke flavor, you need to smoke the brisket in a charcoal grill\u2014or in a smoker. A gas grill will not produce enough smoke.<\/em><\/p>\n

Advance Preparation<\/u><\/h4>\n

4 to 8 hours for curing the meat (optional); also, allow yourself about 6 hours cooking time<\/p>\n

Special Equipment<\/u><\/h4>\n

6 cups hickory or mesquite chips or chunks, soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover and drained<\/p>\n

Ingredients<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
    \n
  • 1 (5 to 6 lbs.) beef brisket, with a layer of fat at least \u00bc inch thick, preferably \u00bd inch thick<\/em><\/li>\n
  • 1 Tablespoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)<\/em><\/li>\n
  • 1 Tablespoon chili powder<\/em><\/li>\n
  • 2 teaspoons sugar<\/em><\/li>\n
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<\/em><\/li>\n
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
      \n
    1. Rinse the brisket under cold running water and blot it dry with paper towels<\/li>\n
    2. Combine the salt, chili powder, sugar, pepper, and cumin in a bowl and toss with your fingers to mix. Rub the spice mixture on the brisket on all sides. If you have time, wrap the brisket in plastic and let it cure, in the refrigerator, for 4 to 8 hours (or even overnight), but don\u2019t worry if you don\u2019t have time for this\u2014it will be plenty flavorful, even if you cook it right away.<\/li>\n
    3. Set up a charcoal grill for indirect grilling and preheat it to low. No drip pan is necessary for this recipe<\/li>\n
    4. When ready to cook, toss 1\u00bd cups of the wood chips on the coals (\u00be cup per side). Place the brisket, fat side up, in an aluminum foil pan (or make a pan with a double sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil). Place the pan in the center of the hot grate, away from the heat.<\/li>\n
    5. Cover the grill<\/li>\n
    6. Smoke cook the brisket until tender enough to shred with your fingers; 6 hours will likely do it, but it may take as long as 8 (the cooking time will depend on the size of the brisket and heat of the grill).<\/li>\n
    7. Baste the brisket from time to time with the fat and juices that accumulate in the pan. You\u2019ll need to add 10 to 12 fresh coals to each side every hour and toss more wood chips on the fresh coals; add about \u00be cup chips per side every time you replenish the coals during the first 3 hours.<\/li>\n
    8. Remove the brisket pan from the grill and let rest for 15 minutes.<\/li>\n
    9. Transfer the brisket to a cutting board and thinly slice it across the grain, using a sharp knife, electric knife, or cleaver.<\/li>\n
    10. Transfer the sliced meat to a platter, pour the pan juices on top, and serve at once.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      Source: \u201cThe Barbecue! Bible 10th Anniversary Edition\u201d (Workman) by Steven Raichlen<\/em><\/p>\n

      \n

      Basic\u00a0Barbecue Sauce<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

      <\/i>Makes 2\u00bd to 3 cups<\/p>\n

      A good barbecue sauce is a study in contrasts: sweet versus sour, fruity versus smoky, spicy versus mellow. Here\u2019s a great all-purpose sauce that\u2019s loaded with flavor but not too sweet. It goes well with all manner of poultry or beef. The minced vegetables give you a coarse–textured sauce, which I happen to like. If you prefer a smooth sauce, puree it in a blender.<\/em><\/p>\n

      Ingredients<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
        \n
      • 3 Tablespoons vegetable oil<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 1 medium-size onion, minced<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 1 clove garlic, minced<\/em><\/li>\n
      • \u00bc green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and minced<\/em><\/li>\n
      • \u00bd cup ketchup<\/em><\/li>\n
      • \u00bd cup tomato sauce<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 3 Tablespoons cider vinegar, or more to taste<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 3 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 2 Tablespoons pineapple juice (optional)<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 1 teaspoon of your favorite hot sauce, or more to taste <\/em><\/li>\n
      • \u00bd teaspoon liquid smoke, or 2 tablespoons meat drippings <\/em><\/li>\n
      • 2 Tablespoons molasses <\/em><\/li>\n
      • 3 Tablespoons dark brown sugar, or more to taste<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 2 Tablespoons prepared mustard of your choice<\/em><\/li>\n
      • 1 teaspoon dry mustard<\/em><\/li>\n
      • \u00bd teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<\/em><\/li>\n
      • Salt<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
          \n
        1. Heat the oil in a large nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and bell pepper and cook until softened but not brown, about 4 minutes.
          \nStir in the ketchup, tomato sauce, cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, pineapple juice (if using), hot sauce, liquid smoke, molasses, brown sugar, prepared and dry mustards, black pepper, and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil.<\/li>\n
        2. Reduce the heat to low and let the sauce simmer, uncovered, until thickened, about 15 minutes, stirring often to prevent scorching. If the sauce becomes too thick, add a little more water.<\/li>\n
        3. Remove the barbecue sauce from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding salt to taste and more cider vinegar, hot sauce, and\/or brown sugar as necessary; the sauce should be highly seasoned.<\/li>\n
        4. Transfer the barbecue sauce to a serving bowl and serve warm or at room temperature. The sauce will keep, tightly covered in the refrigerator, for several weeks.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

          Source: \u201cThe Barbecue! Bible 10th Anniversary Edition\u201d (Workman) by Steven Raichlen<\/i><\/p>\n

          \n

          North\u00a0Carolina Vinegar Sauce<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

          <\/i>Makes about 2\u00bd cups<\/p>\n

          North Carolina occupies a unique position in the realm of American barbecue. Unlike the rest of the country, which enjoys tomato-based sauces, the preferred condiment here is a piquant mixture of vinegar and hot pepper flakes, with just a little sugar to take off the sharp edge. The jalape\u00f1o peppers aren\u2019t strictly traditional, but I like their added bite.<\/em><\/p>\n

          Ingredients<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
            \n
          • 1\u00bd cups cider vinegar<\/em><\/li>\n
          • 1 Tablespoon sugar, or more to taste<\/em><\/li>\n
          • 1 Tablespoon hot red pepper flakes<\/em><\/li>\n
          • 1 small onion, thinly sliced 1 jalape\u00f1o pepper, seeded and thinly sliced (for a hotter sauce, leave the seeds in)<\/em><\/li>\n
          • 2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste<\/em><\/li>\n
          • \u00bd teaspoon freshly ground black pepper<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

            Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
              \n
            1. Combine the cider vinegar, sugar, hot pepper flakes, onion, jalape\u00f1o, salt, and black pepper in a medium-size nonreactive bowl and stir until the sugar and salt dissolve.<\/li>\n
            2. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt and\/or sugar as necessary.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

              Use the sauce the day it is made; it does not store well.<\/em><\/p>\n

              Source: \u201cThe Barbecue! Bible 10th Anniversary Edition\u201d (Workman) by Steven Raichlen<\/i><\/p>\n

              \n

              Perfect Restaurant-Style\u00a0French Fries<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

              4 servings<\/p>\n

              Ingredients<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
                \n
              • 5 large russet potatoes<\/em><\/li>\n
              • 2 Tablespoons table salt (plus coarse salt for sprinkling)<\/em><\/li>\n
              • 2 Tablespoons sugar<\/em><\/li>\n
              • 2 quarts vegetable oil<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
                  \n
                1. Peel potatoes and trim each one into the shape of a rectangle.<\/li>\n
                2. Cut potatoes lengthwise into broad slices about 3\/8 inch thick. Then cut each slice into strips about 3\/8 inch wide. (It is important for the size of the potatoes to be correct for the cooking process to work perfectly. A French fry cutter that yields 3\/8 inch fries is a good investment.)<\/li>\n
                3. Hold cut potatoes in a bowl of cold water until ready to use.<\/li>\n
                4. Place 3 quarts water, table salt and sugar in a large pot. Bring to a boil.<\/li>\n
                5. Add cut potatoes to the boiling water, let the water return to a boil, then immediately reduce heat so water comes to a gentle boil. Cook potatoes for 7 minutes, or until quite soft but still holding together. You don\u2019t want to make mashed potatoes, so check potatoes during the last few minutes of the boiling period. Remove them with a wide, slotted utensil (what chefs call a spider would be ideal), and place them on paper towels in a single layer. Bring to room temperature (about 10 minutes).<\/li>\n
                6. When ready to do the first fry, heat vegetable oil in a deep, heavy, straight-sided pot to 250\u00b0.<\/li>\n
                7. Using your hands, carefully place a small batch of potatoes on a spider (or another wide, slotted utensil), making sure not to break them. Slowly lower the spider into the oil, drop the potatoes into the oil, and cook them for 2 minutes.<\/li>\n
                8. After removing them from the oil with the spider, place them on paper towels in a single layer. This step essentially blanches the potatoes, so there should be very little color. Repeat with the rest of the potatoes, in small batches, until all of them have had a first fry.<\/li>\n
                9. When ready to serve, heat the oil to 350\u00b0F.<\/li>\n
                10. Using your hands, slowly remove a small batch of fries from paper towels without breaking them and place them on the spider.<\/li>\n
                11. Slowly lower the spider into the oil, drop the fries into the oil, and cook, stirring occasionally to ensure even browning. You want the French fries to have a deep golden brown color and for the surface to be a little crinkly; this should take about 3 minutes.<\/li>\n
                12. Remove them from the oil with the spider and place them in a single layer on a baking pan lined with paper towels.<\/li>\n
                13. Sprinkle generously with coarse salt.<\/li>\n
                14. Repeat with the remaining fries.<\/li>\n
                15. Serve immediately for maximum crispness, but if you\u2019re holding the first batch or two, hold the completed fries in a 300\u00b0F oven.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

                  Source: \u201cIt\u2019s All American Food\u201d (Little, Brown) by David Rosengarten<\/em><\/p>\n

                  \n

                  Mustard Slaw<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

                  12 to 16 servings<\/p>\n

                  Ingredients<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
                    \n
                  • 1 (4 lb.) head of cabbage<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • 1 large green bell pepper, seeded, stemmed, and very finely minced (about 1 1\/3 cups)<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • 2 medium onions, very finely minced (about 2 cups)<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • 2 medium carrots, peeled, shredded, and finely minced (about 1 cup)<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • 4 teaspoons celery seeds<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • 2 teaspoons salt (or more, to taste)<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • 2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper (or more, to taste)<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • \u00bd cup freshly squeezed lemon juice<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • 24 oz. French\u2019s yellow mustard<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • 1\u00bd cups sugar<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • \u00be cup cider vinegar<\/em><\/li>\n
                  • Hot sauce (try about \u00bc cup Frank\u2019s Red Hot)<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                    Note: For those who prefer a less spicy dressing, start with 1 teaspoon or even \u00bd teaspoon black pepper and either eliminating the hot sauce or adding it a drop at a time, to taste.<\/em><\/p>\n

                    Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
                      \n
                    1. Core cabbage. Cut into broad, round slices about 1\/3 inch thick, then chop crosswise so that you end up with a pile of chopped cabbage, each piece roughly the size of a corn niblet.<\/li>\n
                    2. Place chopped cabbage in a large bowl and add green pepper, onions, carrots, celery seeds, salt, and pepper. Toss everything with the lemon juice and reserve.<\/li>\n
                    3. Add mustard to another bowl and blend in sugar and vinegar. Add mustard mixture to cabbage mixture and blend well. Add hot sauce to taste. Adjust seasoning. Serve immediately, or hold in the refrigerator for as long as a week.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

                      Source: \u201cIt\u2019s<\/i> All American Food\u201d (Little, Brown) by David Rosengarten<\/i><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

                      In 1924 President Calvin Coolidge recommended the celebration of Father\u2019s Day, but it wasn\u2019t until 1972, during the Nixon administration, that it was signed into law as an official national holiday. The third Sunday in June is perfect grilling weather, and aromas of backyard barbecues waft over fences and through open windows as we celebrate<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":219,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_cloudinary_featured_overwrite":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[21,7,8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11818","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-cooking","category-food","category-recipes"],"yoast_head":"\nFathers Day: The Aromas of Backyard Barbecues<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Recipes for Texas-style barbecued brisket, basic barbecue sauce, North Carolina vinegar sauce, perfect restaurant style French fries, and mustard slaw\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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