{"id":11298,"date":"2007-12-27T16:31:00","date_gmt":"2007-12-27T16:31:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/production.ou.org\/life\/other\/of_schalets_and_cholent_and_kugels_and_charlottes\/"},"modified":"2017-04-13T01:44:37","modified_gmt":"2017-04-13T06:44:37","slug":"of_schalets_and_cholent_and_kugels_and_charlottes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ou.org\/life\/food\/recipes\/of_schalets_and_cholent_and_kugels_and_charlottes\/","title":{"rendered":"Of Schalets and Cholent and Kugels and Charlottes"},"content":{"rendered":"

Schalet, cholent, kugel, charlotte \u2013 any connection?<\/p>\n

My book tour brought me to Cincinnati, where my fifteen minutes of fame consisted of an interview<\/a> \u2013 yes, fifteen minutes \u2013 on Cincinnati Public Radio with host Naomi Lewin. When she asked me to talk about the four basic \u201cK\u201d food groups \u2013 knaidlach, kreplach, kugel and knish \u2013 I knew I had found a soul mate.<\/p>\n

Off the air she mentioned her German family\u2019s signature dish, Apfelschalet (Apple Schalet), which sounded more to me like an apple pie than the Passover kugel my family calls a schalet. Do these disparate dishes have a common ancestor, I wondered.<\/p>\n

The Lewin-Gaertner Family Apfelschalet is baked in a deep dish lined with a sweet cookie crust. Three layers of sliced apples, lemon juice, cinnamon and slivered almonds \u2013 Lewin eschews the raisins in one of the versions \u2013 are strewn with bits of crust between them, then crowned with another cookie crust atop. \u201cIt is our traditional High Holiday dessert,\u201d Lewin told me. \u201cWe make two, one to serve for dinner before services on Erev Rosh Hashanah and another to break the fast for Yom Kippur.\u201d<\/p>\n

Lewin\u2019s mother, Elsbeth, born in Mainz, was fifteen in 1938 when the family saw the proverbial handwriting on the wall and applied for exit visas. Then came Kristallnacht, and Elsbeth, one of 10,000 Jewish children saved from the Nazis by the British, was hastily dispatched on the Kindertransport. Her father, Willi Gaertner, managed to escape to Britain as well, but the war broke out before they could send for Elsbeth\u2019s mother, Johanna. Elsbeth and her father eventually landed in New York, and Johanna wound up taking the Trans-Siberian Railroad across Russia and then sailing to Japan and San Francisco.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere seem to be various different versions of the schalet floating around,\u201d Lewin said. \u201cOne of my sisters unearthed one that has cognac in it. My grandmother’s version, handwritten in German, says to line an iron pot with dough, and put in a layer of apples, sugar, cinnamon, and vanilla sugar until the pot is half full. Then she says to cover that with a thin layer of dough, followed by another round of apples, sugar, cinnamon and vanilla sugar. Another layer of dough goes on top, and it gets baked for 1 to 1\u00bd hours \u2013 no oven temperature given, of course \u2013 until the apples are soft.\u201d<\/p>\n

(Vanilla sugar, a common ingredient in Europe but not as well known in the U.S., comes in little packets and is sugar that has been superinfused with a vanilla bean.)<\/p>\n

A similar recipe appears in Dorie Greenspan’s “Baking: From My Home to Yours,” which she credits to a Russian grandmother, that also features two layers of apples and three of dough. Somehow through the years the Lewins began using three layers of apples rather than two, with bits of dough, rather than a solid layer of crust, between them.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe make it in a 2-quart Pyrex bowl, which lets you know by the lovely brown color it turns all over when it’s done,\u201d Lewin noted. \u201cIt always tastes better the next day \u2013 it gets a little bit richer.\u201d<\/p>\n

But what does this uber pie have in common with the matzah kugel my family calls a schalet?<\/p>\n

Gil Marks in \u201cThe World of Jewish Desserts\u201d notes that the word \u201cschalet\u201d derives from an Old French word (chald<\/i>) meaning warm, and was used to describe a \u201ccholent,\u201d or slow-cooked Sabbath stew. (John Cooper in \u201cEat and Be Satisfied\u201d says that the Germans and Dutch used the Western Yiddish word \u201cschalet,\u201d while the Poles used the Eastern Yiddish word \u201ccholent.\u201d)<\/p>\n

The first puddings were savory rather than sweet and were more like sausages \u2013 animal casings stuffed with grain or bread mixtures and boiled (kishke anyone?). A bread pudding might be spread over the Sabbath stew, and both the pudding and the stew were called schalets. By 1100, Marks tells us, people began distinguishing between the two and started using the word \u201ckoogel,\u201d meaning ball or sphere, for the pudding.<\/p>\n

Cooper cites a German schalet-kugel of the 1870\u2019s containing softened rolls, flour, fat, raisins, eggs, almonds, lemon peel, and syrup. Apfelkuchen (apple pies) were a popular German dish from the 1600\u2019s, he says. \u201cIt is easy to see how the German Jews borrowed and adapted this dish from their neighbors, perhaps even developing it out of the medieval Sabbath dish of fried apple and egg. Possibly the apple schalet was the culinary ancestor of the apple chalotte. Further, in a town in Werttemburg a matzah apple schalet recipe was popular on Passover.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Lewin-Gaertner Family Apfelschalet (with sweet cookie crust), Marks\u2019 Apfelschalet (with challah) and my family\u2019s Passover Apple Matzah Schalet can all trace their roots to the Sabbath stew we know as cholent. What\u2019s in a name? A schalet by any other name would taste as sweet.<\/p>\n

Judy Bart Kancigor<\/b> is the author of \u201cCooking Jewish: 532 Great Recipes from the Rabinowitz Family\u201d (Workman Publishing) and can be found on the web at www.cookingjewish.com<\/a>. Listen to her interview with Naomi Lewin<\/a>. <\/i><\/p>\n

\n

<\/u>Lewin-Gaertner Family Apfelschalet<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

Ingredients<\/span>:<\/h4>\n

For the crust<\/u>:<\/h4>\n
    \n
  • \u00bd lb.\u00a0(2 sticks) unsalted butter or non-dairy margarine, at room temperature<\/em><\/li>\n
  • \u00bd cup sugar<\/em><\/li>\n
  • 1 large egg, separated<\/em><\/li>\n
  • \u00bd teaspoon pure vanilla extract<\/em><\/li>\n
  • \u00bc teaspoon salt<\/em><\/li>\n
  • 1 teaspoon cognac (optional)<\/em><\/li>\n
  • About 2\u00bd cups all-purpose flour<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    For the filling<\/u>:<\/h4>\n
      \n
    • 3 lbs. apples, peeled and sliced<\/em><\/li>\n
    • About 2 Tablespoons lemon juice<\/em><\/li>\n
    • About 6 Tablespoons sugar<\/em><\/li>\n
    • Cinnamon, to taste<\/em><\/li>\n
    • About \u00bd cup raisins (optional)<\/em><\/li>\n
    • About \u00bd cup slivered almonds, toasted<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
        \n
      1. Preheat the oven to 350\u00baF<\/li>\n
      2. Cream butter and sugar until blended and smooth. Add egg yolk, vanilla and salt and blend well. Mix in flour gradually, using just enough to form a soft dough that no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl<\/li>\n
      3. Press half the dough onto the bottom and up the sides of a round 2-quart glass bowl<\/li>\n
      4. Roll enough of the remaining half of the dough to form a circle about an inch larger than the top of the bowl. Set it aside. (The remainder of the dough will be used in the filling.)<\/li>\n
      5. Add about 1\/3 of the sliced apples to the dough-lined bowl. Sprinkle with lemon juice, about 2 Tablespoons sugar, cinnamon, raisins (if using), almonds and little bits of leftover dough. Repeat the layers twice<\/li>\n
      6. Cover the schalet with the rolled-out circle of dough and seal well. Cut a few slits in the top, and brush with egg white<\/li>\n
      7. Bake until golden, 1 to 1\u00bd hours. (Start watching after 40 minutes, and when the top is golden, cover it loosely with aluminum foil to prevent burning.) The schalet is done when the sides and bottom are golden brown and the apples are soft. (Test by inserting a cake tester into the slits.)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

        Serve at room temperature.<\/em><\/p>\n

        \n

        Apfelschalet (Alsatian Apple Charlotte)<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

        8 to 10\u00a0servings<\/p>\n

        Puddings have come a long way from grain sausages, developing into a vast array of baked and steamed treats. The New Larousse Gastronomique (New York, Crown Publishers, 1977) records one of these developments, Schaleth \u00e0 la Juive, an apple pastry similar to a fluden. The charlotte is a related dish in which a crisp bread casing contrasts with the soft fruit filling. For Passover, substitute moistened matzas for the bread.<\/em><\/p>\n

        Ingredients<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
          \n
        • 3 Tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine<\/em><\/li>\n
        • 2 lbs.\u00a0tart cooking apples, such as Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Gravenstein, Greening, Jonathan, Macoun, Pippin, Starr, Winesap, or any combination, peeled, cored, and sliced (about 7 cups)<\/em><\/li>\n
        • \u00bc to 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon<\/em><\/li>\n
        • 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest or vanilla extract (optional)<\/em><\/li>\n
        • \u00bc to \u00bd cup sugar<\/em><\/li>\n
        • 1 lb.\u00a0stale challah or other egg bread, crusts removed, cut into \u00bc-inch-thick slices (about 24 slices)<\/em><\/li>\n
        • \u00bd cup clarified butter or melted margarine<\/em><\/li>\n
        • About 3 Tablespoons confectioners’ sugar for dusting<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

          Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
            \n
          1. Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the apples, cinnamon, and zest if using and saut\u00e9 until well coated. Cover and cook until the apples are tender but not mushy, about 15 minutes. Stir in the sugar. Let cool<\/li>\n
          2. Preheat the oven to 375\u00b0F<\/li>\n
          3. Cut some of the bread slices into strips to fit the sides of a 2-quart charlotte mold (a metal pan with slightly slopping sides) or deep 2-quart casserole. Cut the rest into triangles. Coat the triangles with the butter (by dipping or brushing) and arrange, slightly overlapping, on the bottom of the mold. Coat the bread strips with the butter and arrange, slightly overlapping, along the sides of the pan. Fill with the apple mixture. Coat the remaining slices with butter and arrange, slightly overlapping, over the top<\/li>\n
          4. Bake until golden brown, about 40 minutes. Let cool for at least 15 minutes, then invert onto a serving platter. Dust with the confectioners’ sugar. Serve warm or at room temperature.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

            From \u201cThe World of Jewish Desserts\u201d by Gil Marks<\/em><\/p>\n

            \n

            Apple Matzah Schalet<\/b><\/span><\/h3>\n

            About 16 servings<\/p>\n

            \"image\"<\/em>I\u2019ve been making this Passover schalet for as long as I can remember. I always baked it in a 13 x 9-inch pan, as I describe here. But several years ago Natalie Haughton, food editor of the Los Angeles Daily News, came to my home with a photographer to interview me for a Passover feature story. She suggested that I bake my schalet in a springform pan, and the result is amazing: pineapple rings with strawberry centers encircle this fruity kugel, studded with blueberries and mandarin oranges for a rainbow of color too pretty to cut. <\/em><\/p>\n

            Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
              \n
            • Nondairy margarine or butter, for greasing the baking pan<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 1 cup (packed) dried apricots or golden raisins, or a combination<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 2 (20 oz.) cans pineapple rings, drained, juice reserved<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 6 medium-sized\u00a0apples, peeled and thinly sliced<\/em><\/li>\n
            • Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 Tablespoons)<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 9 sheets of matzah<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 9 large eggs, separated<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 1\u00bd cups sugar<\/em><\/li>\n
            • Grated zest of 1 lemon<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 1 Tablespoon ground cinnamon, plus extra for sprinkling<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 1\u00bd teaspoons vanilla<\/em><\/li>\n
            • \u00bd teaspoon salt<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 6 Tablespoons (\u00be stick) nondairy margarine or butter, melted and cooled<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 2 cups fresh or frozen strawberries<\/em><\/li>\n
            • About 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 1 (11 oz.) can mandarin oranges<\/em><\/li>\n
            • 3 Tablespoons nondairy margarine or butter, slivered<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

              Instructions<\/span>:<\/h4>\n
                \n
              1. Preheat the oven to 350\u00b0F. Generously grease a 13×9-inch baking pan<\/li>\n
              2. Snip the apricots to the size of raisins. (Kitchen shears work much better than a knife for this purpose.) Combine the snipped apricots and the reserved pineapple juice in a small bowl, and set it aside<\/li>\n
              3. Toss the apple slices with the lemon juice in a bowl (to prevent browning), and set it aside<\/li>\n
              4. Crumble the matzah into a very large bowl, add cold water to cover, and soak a few seconds just to soften the matzah. Drain the soaked matzah thoroughly, wipe the bowl dry, and return the matzah to the bowl<\/li>\n
              5. Beat the egg yolks and \u00be cup of the sugar with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until thick and lemon-colored, about 3 minutes, scraping the bowl as necessary. Beat in the lemon zest, cinnamon, vanilla, and salt. Stir in the melted margarine<\/li>\n
              6. Stir the egg yolk mixture into the soaked matzah. Drain the apricots, and add them and the apples to the matzah mixture. Combine well<\/li>\n
              7. Using a clean, dry bowl and beaters, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Add the remaining \u00be cup sugar, a Tablespoon at a time, beating for 10 seconds after each addition, until stiff peaks form, about 6 minutes total. Stir one fourth of the egg whites into the matzah mixture to lighten it. Then add the remaining whites in three additions, folding them in until incorporated<\/li>\n
              8. Pour the matzah mixture into the prepared baking pan. Decorate the top with the pineapple rings, strawberries, blueberries, and mandarin oranges in a pretty design. Dot with the slivers of margarine, and sprinkle with cinnamon. Bake, uncovered, until firm, about 1 hour<\/li>\n
              9. Cut into squares and serve hot.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

                From \u201cCooking Jewish: 532 Great Recipes from the Rabinowitz Family\u201d by Judy Bart Kancigor<\/em><\/p>\n

                For a Knock-Their-Socks-Off Presentation<\/span> <\/b><\/h4>\n

                Instead of using the 13×9-inch baking pan, generously grease the bottom and sides of a 10-inch springform pan with shortening. (If you have only a 9-inch springform pan, you will have some batter left over, which you can bake separately in a small dish.) Dry the pineapple, berries, and mandarin oranges well with paper towels so they will stick. Press pineapple rings carefully onto the greased sides of the pan. Press strawberries into the center of each pineapple ring, facing the tips outward. Press mandarin oranges and blueberries artfully into the spaces between the pineapple rings. If any of the fruit refuses to stick, use a bit more shortening as \u201cglue.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

                Slowly pour the matzah mixture into the pan, being careful not to disturb the fruit sticking to the sides. Decorate the top with more fruit. Dot it with the slivers of margarine and sprinkle with cinnamon. Bake, uncovered, until the center is firm, 1\u00bc hours. Allow the schalet to rest, covered, for 10 minutes. Then carefully release the spring mechanism and slowly lift the sides away. Take bows!<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

                Schalet, cholent, kugel, charlotte \u2013 any connection? My book tour brought me to Cincinnati, where my fifteen minutes of fame consisted of an interview \u2013 yes, fifteen minutes \u2013 on Cincinnati Public Radio with host Naomi Lewin. When she asked me to talk about the four basic \u201cK\u201d food groups \u2013 knaidlach, kreplach, kugel and<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":219,"featured_media":56871,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_cloudinary_featured_overwrite":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[21,8],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-11298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cooking","category-recipes"],"yoast_head":"\nOf Schalets and Cholent and Kugels and Charlottes<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"3 recipes for apple schalets, including 1 Kosher L'Pesach from Judy Bart Kancigor, author of \u201cCooking Jewish: 532 Great Recipes from the Rabinowitz Family"\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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