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March 24, 2009
Chicken Soup Sinkers
By Sarah Arbess
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Passover’s just around the corner and in an effort to wrap my head around the enormity of renovating, cause let’s face it, getting rid of every scrap of “chametz” is a major overhaul to your blissful carbohydrate filled domicile, I started picking away at my pantry. Stale boxes of crackers are always the first to go. And then I discover it, that dusty, once almost cheerful, nay comforting orange, green and pasty-white box of Manischewitz Matzo Ball Mix. Oh, that juicy, fluffy knaidle on the box while tempting to some could very well be the bane of my existence. Why? Because the more dense and “rock-like” the knaidle, the better it is, in my opinion. It’s a texture thing. Needing a knife with a serrated edge to saw through it is sheer pleasure. And for some odd reason, the denser it is the better the flavor is too - like pasta that tastes better al dente.

Growing up my brother’s and I fought over the “sinkers” as we called my mother’s matzo balls. While her objective was to produce her ideal melt-in-your-mouth delicacy so necessary to complete the chicken soup, she often achieved, to her chagrin, knaidles so tough my Zaide avoided them for fear of losing his dentures.

Since I left my mother’s house in Toronto and moved to Denver I have plumbed the depths of Denver’s Jewish community for “sinkers”. At every Passover table for 15 years I have, with great anticipation, sunk my spoon into Mrs so-in-so’s matzo balls only to see the thing collapse under the weight of my utensil. “Why don’t you make your own”, you ask? My own matzo balls are disastrous, tasteless fluff balls that disintegrate if they even see a spoon coming.

I have consulted with many surrogate mothers (my family and I have been adopted by several here in the Mile High City), but no one seems to know the secret. One suggested adding an extra egg to toughen up the mixture – they turned out lighter than ever – like clouds for floating on air. Another suggested I patchky more with the mixture. I nearly beat it to death and yet against the law of gravity (and maybe even something in the Torah) it came out weightless, floating defiantly on top of my soup.



Once at a Seder in 1997 I had a chimera of hope when on the topic of hard versus soft, that is to say hawks versus doves in Israeli politics, we drifted into the consistency of knaidlach.

While we debated, I felt a tap on my shoulder. I turned to face a woman I hadn’t noticed because she had been in the kitchen helping the hostess most of the meal. “The middle daughter of my first cousin twice removed makes hard ones,” she whispered.

“Oh.” I leaned in conspiratorially. The woman’s silver hair was wound into a tight chignon, but a few strands escaped and hung giddily around high cheekbones. Her eyes sparkled, like she had just shared the most wonderful secret. I was taken in. Maybe this was it.

“How does she do it?” I whispered back.

“I don’t know. You’ll have to ask her. Her name is Myra Blickstein, the Idaho Blickstein’s. She lives in Idaho, lots of potatoes there. Look her up.

As Had-gad-ya came to a close and Hirsh Lipsky banged his fleshy fist on the table to the beat, I noticed the sliver haired lady was gone - to the kitchen I supposed. After the holiday I called Myra Blickstein. Of the Idaho Blicksteins. I told her I’d met her first cousin thrice removed in Denver and she said, “I don’t remember who dat is.”

“Blickstein, somebody Blickstein.” Why hadn’t I gotten the mystery woman’s first name?

“So, what you want?”

“I heard you make amazing knaidlach and I was wondering… well your cousin said you might give me your recipe.”

“Estie!” It blasted through my eardrum. “She’s been trying to get my recipe for years. Tell her she can’t have it. She’ll never have it. I’ll take it to the grave!”

I was so close, but could feel the secret slipping away.



Still every year I continue to hold out hope for a revelation.

And every year I get the same advice.

“Don’t do anything, and do not use the box.” Okay, so I don’t use the box. I follow the “Foolproof Matzo Balls” recipe in an old cookbook I dig up and ‘don’t do anything’ as my mother suggests, and low and behold I once again manufacture the incorrigible “floater”. Maybe it’s the fact that I’m a mile high up here that’s throwing the recipe off.

I’m sick and tired of trying. The economy is bad, my wrist is sore from whisking eggs for practice chiffon cakes and bubelahs and my craving for “sinkers” is stronger than ever.

I was just home for my nephew’s bar mitzvah and got to see the whole mishpuchah which was so nice. I cave. I pick up the phone and dial. “Ma, guess what? I have some good news. We’re coming home for Pesach this year.” (She’s kvelling) “Yeah, it’s great isn’t it? Listen, I was wondering, will you be making your soup?” (She wants to know, “what kind of strange question is that?”) “Nothing, Ma, it’s nothing. I was just wondering. I’ll see you soon okay. Bye.”


My mouth starts to water at the thought of her knaidlach.


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Recent Comments

In my family, I have to make two batches of matzoh balls -- one for my side of the family, which is light, and one for my husband and the kids, which must be as hard as cannon balls.

So, if you want the secret for hard knaidels, it's this: Simply knead in lots of extra matzoh meal.

From the time my kids were little, that's what I had to do. My mother (of blessed memory) would make them with me and the girls. First, we'd follow the recipe on the package -- for the light knaidels. We'd set aside half, in a small bowl, cover it and put it in the fridge. Into the remainder we'd knead a lot more matzoh meal, cover that bowl, and put it in the fridge as well.

An hour later, we'd take out both bowls. The girls loved this. First, they'd shape the light knaidels into balls the size of walnuts. The heavy dough they would shape into "snakes." We'd boil both together in the same pot, and you could tell the difference when you served them by the shape!

The girls are 22 and 24 now, but we plan to do the same this Pesach, and, as always, there will be a debate at our table about which is superior. But my mother knew which was better, of course: light-as-clouds knaidels! And my husband's Aunt Leola, of blessed memory, also knew which was better: cannon ball knaidels!

Chag sameach, all!
Margie Gann, Toronto

Marjorie Gann posted on 03/26 at 07:16 PM.

Great writer, made me a confirmed switcher to leaden matzoh balls. Your writer knows her stuff writerwise, let alone the ongoing saga of floaters versus sinkers that is perpetuated every seder at every Jewish table. Bravo Sarah Arbess!

A.D.Rakmil posted on 03/27 at 11:30 AM.

"Of the Idaho Blicksteins."

THAT is a classic line that I am going to quote out of context (but with attribution, of course) every opportunity I get.

Sarah, that was one entertaining article!

Gorf posted on 03/28 at 07:34 PM.

Delightful, well-told story that brings back vivid memories of the cannon balls my late mother-in-law would make. She just couldn't get them fluffy no matter how hard she tried. I on the other hand, tried to get them fluffy, but ended up with little rocks!

Thanks for the memories, Sarah.

K. Weinstein posted on 04/10 at 06:03 AM.

Sara,
Thanks for your story. I thought it was so entertaining I read it at our Seder while the family was having soup and knadles (NOT SINKERS). So I thought I would share with you my mom's story.

My mother was one of six children-2 boys, 4 girls. She was to her mother's great dispair, a total failure in the kitchen. She would wring her hands and say, "Mary what will become of you when you get married and have to take care of a family?" Then she would banish her from the kitchen to the taunts and jeers from her sisters. "Mary, Mary, quite contrary."

She grew up, married and through much trial and error (mostly error) she became a reasonably good cook. The day finally came when her sister pronounced she was ready to have the Seder.

In preparation we scrubbed, we cleaned, we polished. And, then we did it again. The day before we set the table. Perfect. Anticipation and excitement were high.

Finally the family was gathered and the service began. The service had reached the point of serving the dinner. First came the gefilte fish made by my aunt. The perfume of the horseradish filled the air as the fish was proclaimed to be "Superb with the horseradish bringing out the excellent qualities of the fish."

Now everybody eagerly awaited the soup and knadles. "Golf balls, she made golf balls." The knadles were hard as a rock. They teased her unmercifully. Mortified, shamed, but not defeated she made a vow. "Tomorrow I will start making knadles every week until I perfect them."

It got to be a joke in our house. If it was knadles, it must be Friday. She measured, she pinched, she adjusted, she tweaked until at last she made perfect knadles. Perfect golden orbs that as they bathed in the chicken soup absorbed the delicate flavors of the soup. Words cannot describe how delicious they were.

Passover was coming. Once again we scrubbed, we cleaned, we polished. This year things would be perfect. My mother exuded confidence.

The family gathered. The service began.
Showtime. Once again the fish was delish. The soup was served.

"Golf balls, again!" It was devastating. My mother looked up and said, "Mah Nish Ta Nah, why is this night different from all other nights? On all other nights, my knadles are perfect, but tonight they are like rocks."

No answer came from above. After that as night follows day, my mother's knadles were always perfect except on Passover. Her "golf balls" became a tradition as did your mother's "sinkers".

Fortunately the curse was not passed down to me, but, you guessed it, to my daughter whose knadles always come out like baseballs.

Rochelle Padzensky posted on 04/18 at 07:14 AM.


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