Donuts

At a recent Hanukkah workshop that I was fortunate enough to be the keynote speaker I had an attendee ask me the age old Hanukkah question. “How do I make sufganiyot (donuts) at home and have them turn out like the store bought kind instead of the doughy, oily lumps that most of us have created at one time or another?” My answer was as fairly succinct. “You can’t really” I said, “because most of us don’t have the commercial deep fat fryers that reach the temperature required to make donut (a pan filled with oil just won’t get hot enough)”. That “you can’t”, statement however, came with a modifier.

“HOWEVER”, I continued, after I had assured everyone that they could successfully use the deep fryers they had specifically purchased for Hanukkah cooking or a saucepan full of oil in lieu of the deep fryer, to make a multitude of donut like fried sweet treats. I say the most important thing in the “fried food for Hanukkah” equation is not the equipment but rather “fried dessert” recipes that can be whipped up in a few minutes and cooked with equipment that you already have.

I am suggesting you try making fritters, beignets, or calas (a breakfast fritter mixed with cooked rice, flour, sugar, and spices, and then deep-fried) and serve them along with (not instead of) store made donuts. Lots of rich delicious to tempt us, yes, but it’s a holiday and we’re supposed to overeat.

Whether you prefer to use the donut or doughnut spelling (both correct) of the word you need to know going into this that these recipes all have a ton of calories. So, this year, make sure that one of the Hanukkah presents you give yourself is permission not to count them.

FRYING NOTE: If you don’t have a thermometer to gage the temperature of the oil use this tried and true method to see if the oil is hot enough to fry the donut properly. Drop a 1 inch cube of bread into the oil, if it browns in 60 seconds, the oil is hot enough.

FRITTER NOTE: The most important rule to be observed in making fritters, whether they are fruit filled or plain, is to have the batter the proper consistency. This is particularly important in making fruit fritters. It must be of a sufficient thick consistency to envelop, in one single immersion, the fruit or other substance.

BANANA FRITTERS (dairy)

These banana chunks, dipped in a cinnamon spiced batter then deep fried in hot oil are great served with a chocolate dipping sauce.

Cut bananas into thirds; sprinkle with lemon juice and confectioners; sugar. Set aside and let stand for 15 to 20 minutes. Mix biscuit mix with sugar, cinnamon, egg, and milk. Dip banana chunks in batter and fry at about 370 until golden. Makes 12 pieces.

ANNE’S APPLE FRITTERS (dairy)

This gooey, sweet recipe sent to me by my friend Anne takes a little more time and effort than you’d probably like to put together and make. Trust me, it’s worth the effort.

Filling
In a saucepan combine the vanilla and butter. Cook until the butter bubbles. Add the apples, toss to coat. Add the teaspoon cinnamon and sugar; sauté, stirring constantly, until apples begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and apple juice; increase heat to high. Cook until liquid has been absorbed and apples start to brown, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Transfer apples to baking sheet and set it aside.

Batter
Place the yeast in bowl of an electric mixer. Pour milk over yeast, sprinkle 2 cups pastry flour on top. Set aside until flour begins to crack, 15 to 20 minutes. Place the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Add the 1/3 cup apple juice, butter, salt, cinnamon, vanilla, the remaining 1/4 cup cake flour, and 1 cup bread flour, whisk to combine. Add flour mixture to the yeast mixture. Using the paddle attachment, mix on low speed 30 seconds. Add remaining 2 tablespoons bread flour; increase speed to medium, and mix 3 to 4 minutes.

Lightly oil a large bowl. Sift an even layer of pastry flour onto a clean work surface, and lightly flour your hands. Turn out dough, and gather into a ball. Transfer dough to oiled bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Heat oil in a low-sided six-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until a deep-frying thermometer registers 375. Lightly dust a baking pan with flour and line a second one with paper towels. Set both pans aside.

Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Using your hands, stretch the dough into a 10 by 15 inch rectangle, about 1/2 inch thick. Spread half of the reserved apple mixture over dough, and fold dough, like a letter into thirds. Pat down with your hand, form another 10 by 15 inch rectangle. Spread remaining apples over dough and fold into thirds again; apples will be evenly distributed throughout the dough. Gather dough in a ball, and return dough to oiled bowl. Re-cover, and set aside in a warm place until doubled in size again, about 30 minutes.

Turn out dough onto a lightly floured work surface; pat into a 10 by 15 inch rectangle, about 1 inch thick. Using a 2 1/2 inch round cutter, cut out fritters as close together as possible, dipping cutter in flour before each cut. Transfer fritters to floured baking pan. Set aside to rest 10 minutes. But no longer. Flour your hands. Lift a fritter, pulling the ends to make a 4 inch oval, carefully drop into oil. Repeat with two more pieces of dough. Cook until fritters begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, turn fritters over, cook until evenly browned, 2 minutes more. Transfer fritters to lined pan. Repeat with remaining dough. Cool slightly and glaze. Transfer to wire rack, and let set. Serve.

Donuts may either be dipped in a bowl of glaze or iced. If the glaze is too thick, thin it by adding 1/2 teaspoon liquid at a time until desired consistency is reached.

FOOD PROCESSOR DONUT HOLES (dairy)

Place all the ingredients into the bowl of a food processor. Process for about 3 1/2 minutes with the steel blade. Roll out the dough to about 1 inch thick and cut the dough into 2 inch rounds. Heat the oil to about 360 and then fry the rounds in batches, turning once. Drain and sprinkle with sifted confectioners' sugar or a cinnamon sugar mix. Makes 4 to 5 dozen donut holes.

HANUKKAH PUFFS (dairy or pareve)

These are delicious for a morning coffee.

Heat the in a bowl combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and nutmeg. Mix well and then add the oil, milk or non dairy substitute and egg. Mix thoroughly. Drop by small teaspoonful (too large does not cook thoroughly) into deep hot oil (375). Fry about 3 minutes or until golden brown. Drain on absorbent paper. Roll warm puffs in cinnamon-sugar or confectioners' sugar. Makes about 3 dozen.

NOTE: The batter may be kept in refrigerator several days.

BEIGNETS (dairy)

In a bowl combine the water, sugar, evaporated milk, yeast, flour, sugar egg, margarine salt and nutmeg. Knead and let rise until doubled. Punch down. Roll into rectangle. Cut dough into 2 inch wide strips at a diagonal. Cut again diagonally to form diamonds. Place on ungreased baking sheets, 2 in apart. Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Gather up scraps and let rest 15 minutes. Roll and cut as before. Let rise until doubled in bulk, about 45 minutes. In a large saucepan, heat 3 inches of oil to 370. Carefully slide beignets into hot oil 3 to 4 at a time. Do not crowd. Fry until puffy and golden brown on both sides, turning once with tongs. Should be about 2-3 minutes per side. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Sift powdered sugar over hot beignets and serve hot. Makes 36.

NEW ORLEANS CALAS

My friend Nancy says that this recipe is the one that her family uses for breakfast during Hanukkah.

In a bowl dissolve the yeast in the warm water. In another bowl mash the hot cooked rice with the back of a spoon; cool to lukewarm. Combine the yeast and rice, mixing well; cover and let rise in a warm place overnight. In the morning add the eggs, sugar, flour, salt, and nutmeg to rice mixture, beating until thoroughly mixed. Heat 3 inches of vegetable oil in a skillet to about 375. Drop the batter by tablespoonfuls into hot oil, and cook until golden brown, turning once. Drain well on paper towels. Combine powdered sugar and cinnamon; sprinkle over hot calas and serve immediately. Makes about 2 dozen.

And finally, the ultimate in donuts, the Krispy Kreme. I have not tried this recipe that several readers sent to me yet but have it on good authority that it’s really very close to the real thing.

GLAZES FOR DONUTS, FRITTERS AND OTHER STUFF

Plain Sugar Glaze: Mix 1/2 cup boiling water gradually to one cup confectioner's sugar.

Vanilla Glaze: Mix 1 cup powdered sugar with 1 1/2 tablespoons milk and 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla.

Chocolate Glaze: Mix 1 cup of powdered sugar with 1 1/2 tablespoons milk and 1 tablespoon chocolate drink mix. If it's not chocolaty enough, add a little cocoa powder.

Lemon Glaze: Mix 1 cup powdered sugar with 1 1/2 tablespoons of reconstituted lemon juice.

Orange Glaze: Mix 1 cup of powdered sugar with 1 1/2 tablespoons of orange juice and 1/2 teaspoon grated orange rind.

COPY CAT KRISPY KREME DOUGHNUTS
For those of you who just can’t resist trying to make doughnuts at home!

Dissolve yeast in warm water in 2 1/2-quart bowl. Add milk, salt, eggs, shortening and 2 cups flour. Beat on low speed scraping bowl constantly, 30 seconds. Beat on medium speed scraping bowl occasionally, 2 minutes. Stir in remaining flour until smooth. Cover and let rise in warm place, until double, 50-60 minutes. (Dough is ready when indentation remains when touched.) Turn dough onto floured surface; roll around lightly to coat with flour. Gently roll dough 1/2-inch thick with floured rolling pin. Cut with floured doughnut cutter. Cover and let rise until double, 30-40minutes. Heat vegetable oil in deep fryer to 350 degrees. Slide doughnuts into hot oil with wide spatula. Turn doughnuts as they rise to the surface. Fry until golden brown, about 1 minute on each side. Remove carefully from oil (do not prick surface); drain. Dip the doughnuts into creamy glaze set on rack then when slightly cooled spread chocolate glaze on top. Can dip in sprinkles or other toppings after chocolate if desired. Creamy Glaze: Heat butter until melted. Remove from heat. Stir in powdered sugar and vanilla until smooth. Stir in water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until desired consistency. Chocolate glaze: 1/3 cup butter 2 cups powdered sugar 1 1/2 tsp. vanilla 4-6 Tbsp. hot water 4-oz milk chocolate or semi-sweet chips Heat butter and chocolate over low heat until chocolate is melted; remove from heat. Stir in powdered sugar and vanilla until smooth. Stir in water 1 tablespoon at a time, until desired consistency. Makes 4.

Eileen Goltz, a professional chef and caterer, is the author of the new cookbook, Perfectly Pareve.