Eggplant

While eggplants are available year around I find myself gravitating to them more often in the autumn. More specifically, when the rain and sleet of September and October (hopefully after we’ve put away the sukkah) give way to the snows of winter I find myself looking for ways to include them in as many meals as possible.

Eggplants are inexpensive and are delicious served either hot or cold. I have dozens of recipes in which I marinate, stuff, roast, grill, and fry them. I put eggplant in casseroles, stews, sandwiches and soups and it’s equally delicious in all of them. The skin of most varieties of eggplants is edible and the colors can range from the dark purple to pale mauve, and from yellow to white.

When shopping I look for heavy, firm eggplants with bruise free skin.

To check if it’s ripe I gently push the eggplant with my index finger. If the flesh gives slightly and then bounces back, I know it’s ripe. If the indentation remains, I know it’s overripe and the insides will probably be mushy and or bitter. Eggplants are very perishable and become bitter if you don’t use them relatively quickly after you buy them. They should be stored in a cool, dry place and used within a day or two of purchase.

Don’t slice your eggplant until just before you plan to use it. A sliced eggplant will absorb oil like a sponge, when you cook it, but a bread crumb or batter coating will help cut down on the oil uptake. Preheating the oil also helps cut down on the absorption. There are a lot of spices that compliment the taste of the eggplant. I have use, at one time or another, allspice, basil, bay leaves, garlic, chili powder, oregano, sage, thyme, marjoram, and parsley.

The following recipes are just a small selection of some of my favorites and you don’t need to wait for the rain to start enjoying them.

Eggplant Yield: 1 pound = 3 to 4 cups chopped.

HOT AND SOUR EGGPLANT SALAD (pareve)

Slice the eggplant lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Sprinkle the slices with salt and let drain for 30 minutes. Rinse under cold running water and pat dry with paper towels. To Prepare the dressing: Heat the 1/4 cup sesame oil in a skillet until very hot. Add the pepper flakes, cover the pan and remove it from the heat. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then add the soy sauce, rice wine, soy sauce, sugar, ginger and garlic. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Brush the eggplant slices with the sesame oil. Arrange the slices on a grill pan and then broil them until they are tender and deep golden brown on both sides. Remove from the oven and cool. Cut the slices into 1/4-inch dice and place in a bowl with the red pepper and scallions. Add the dressing and toss lightly to coat. Let the salad set for about 20 minutes. Combine the bean sprouts, sliced radishes and slivered carrots in a bowl. Add the eggplant and dressing. Toss to combine and serve. Serve at room temperature or chilled. Serves 6 to 8.

EGGPLANT STACKS (dairy)

Cut the eggplant crosswise into twelve 1/3-inch-thick slices, discarding ends, and arrange in one layer on paper towels. Sprinkle both sides of slices evenly with salt and cover with another layer of paper towels. Let eggplant stand 30 minutes. Pat eggplant dry. Preheat oven to 375 and oil a shallow baking pan. Arrange 4 eggplant slices in one layer in pan and spread each slice evenly with 1 teaspoon pesto. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons Monterey Jack evenly over pesto on each slice. Continue to layer remaining eggplant slices, pesto, and Monterey Jack in same manner. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon Parmesan evenly over each stack and bake in middle of oven until eggplant is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as a side dish.

CHICKEN WITH EGGPLANT AND ROASTED RED PEPPER SAUCE (meat)
Fast, easy and elegant

To Roast Peppers: Core peppers and remove seed. Place the peppers on the grill or under the broiler, turning them, until charred all over, nearly black. Remove and place in a plastic or paper bag to steam off skin. When cool enough to handle, remove charred skin.

Puree grilled peppers and vinegar in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Set it aside. Preheat grill pan or broiler. Halve eggplant, score in 2 or 3 places and brush with some of the oil. Place the eggplant on the grill pan, cut side down. Turn after about 5 minutes. Cook until almost soft. Add chicken breasts to grill and cook 3 minutes on each side, turning until done. Remove to a plate. Heat the rest of the oil in a large frying pan until it sizzles when a drop of water is added. Add the onion and sauté until somewhat translucent, but NOT brown. Add the garlic (DO NOT brown garlic or it will be bitter!) Add pureed pepper, eggplants, and chicken to frying pan, and heat together, about 5 minutes. Place chicken mixture on a platter. Place eggplant and sauce around it. Sprinkle with herbs of choice. Makes 4 servings.

ONION CHICKEN WITH EGGPLANT (meat)
A hearty meal when served over rice or noodles

Season the chicken with salt and pepper In a large deep skillet, heat the oil and brown the chicken for 5 minutes on each side. Remove the chicken from the skillet to a bowl or platter. Don’t clean the skillet, add the onion, garlic and eggplant. Cook the vegetables and stir for 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, red wine, vinegar, dry white wine and chicken broth. Bring to a boil. Add bay leaf, thyme and hot pepper flakes. Return the chicken pieces to the skillet. Baste with the sauce. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. until well cooked. Discard bay leaf before serving. Serves 4.

FETA, EGGPLANT AND GARBANZO BEAN SALAD (dairy)

Dice the eggplant into 3/4-inch cubes. Place the eggplant in a colander and sprinkle each layer generously with salt. Place weight (like a pot cover) over eggplant and let drain 30 minutes. Rinse and drain well, squeezing gently to remove excess liquid, and pat dry. Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in large skillet and sauté half of eggplant, tossing gently, over medium heat until lightly browned and tender, but not mushy. Remove, cool slightly and repeat with remaining eggplant and additional 1/4 cup of oil. Combine eggplant in large bowl with garbanzo beans, garlic, tomato, and oregano. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add lemon juice and remaining 1/4 cup olive oil and toss well. Cover salad and set aside to marinate at room temperature at least 1 hour before serving. Add the feta cheese just before serving. Toss to combine and then serve. Makes 4 servings.

EGGPLANT AND OLIVE SPREAD (pareve)

Preheat oven to 475. Pierce eggplants with fork. Place the eggplant on a baking sheet. Roast until the skins are blackened and eggplants are soft, turning occasionally, about 1 hour. Cut eggplants in half. Spoon flesh into strainer set over bowl; drain 15 minutes. Maintain oven temperature. Meanwhile, brush pita rounds lightly with oil. Sprinkle pita rounds with salt and pepper. Cut each pita round into 6 wedges. Arrange wedges on clean baking sheet. Bake until crisp, about 4 minutes; cool. Transfer the drained eggplant to medium bowl. Mix in the olives, garlic, vinegar, cumin and 1 tablespoon oil. Season spread with salt and pepper. Mound in small bowl. Serve with chips. Makes about 2 cups of spread.

EGGPLANT AND TOMATO SANDWICHES (dairy)
With garlic and thyme mayonnaise

Brush the eggplant slices with the egg/water mixture and dip both sides in Parmesan cheese. Place the slices of dipped eggplant on a cookie sheet and place the sheet under the broiler. Brown both sides, about 5 minutes. Set the cooked eggplant aside to cool. In a bowl combine the garlic and thyme with the mayonnaise. Spread the mayonnaise on the sliced bread. Layer the eggplant and tomato slices on bread. Slice sandwich into 4 sections. Serves 4.

EGGPLANT VEGGIE MEAT BALLS (dairy)
Great served with tomato sauce and spaghetti

Skin and de-seed two small eggplants. Chop the eggplant into fine pieces. Add the 2 cups of bread crumbs, two or three teaspoons of garlic, one cup of mozzarella cheese, grated 1-1/2 cups of milk or water, and one cup of tomato sauce. Combine all the ingredients, using your hands to mix. Form into small or medium sized "meatballs." Preheat oven to 400. Place the veggie meat balls on a greased cookie sheet and bake for 25 minutes or until brown. Makes approx. 1 1/2 to 2 dozen veggie meatballs.

Eileen Goltz, a professional chef and caterer, is the author of the new cookbook, Perfectly Pareve.