Brisket, that quintessential cut of meat that seems to grace our tables anytime we have to serve more than 6 is back in favor these days with the rush to cut carbs. While the cow is the usual source of the brisket the availability (both on the web and in the main stream marketplace) of kosher bison, its lower fat content and its competitive price have made it almost as popular as beef brisket.

The brisket is taken from the breast section under the first five ribs and divided into two sections, the first cut and second cut. The first or flat cut has minimal fat and is usually more expensive than the more flavorful second or point cut, which has more fat. No matter which cut you choose, the brisket requires a long slow moist cooking, must be cut across the grain and is equally delicious whether the accompanying sauce is sweet or savory.

The following recipes work equally well with beef or bison. Since everyone I know is usually running around looking for their holiday siddurs, setting the table and generally getting ready for shul I recommend making the brisket a day or two ahead of time, slicing it, and then reheating it just before serving. The taste is just the same as if you’d just made it and not having any mess to clean up is just an extra added bonus.

Quick note: DO NOT SUBSTITUTE CORNED BEEF BRISKET for a regular brisket. While the cut of meat is the same it has already been preseasoned by curing it in a seasoned brine and not suitable for any of these recipes.

SAVORY BRISKET

Preheat oven to 325. In a large Dutch oven, brown meat on all sides. In a bowl combine the soy sauce, coffee, catsup, chili sauce, honey, beef broth and garlic. Mix to combine and then pour the mixture over the brisket. Cover and simmer on stove top or in the oven for 3 to 4 hours, or until tender. Allow to cool slightly and cut across the grain. This recipe can be made ahead of time, sliced, refrigerated or frozen and then reheated just before serving. Serves 6. This recipe can be doubled or tripled.

APPLE BUTTER BRISKET

Preheat oven to 325. Place the brisket, onion, cloves, and garlic in a large Dutch oven; add water to cover. Bring to a boil; cover, reduce heat, and simmer 2 1/2 hours. Place the sliced onion on the bottom of a roasting pan. Remove brisket from Dutch oven and then place brisket on top of the onions in a roasting pan. In a saucepan combine apple butte, wine, mustard, green onions salt, curry powder and pepper. Cook over medium heat 3 to 4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the mixture from the heat and then brush 1/2 cup apple butter mixture over the top of the brisket. Bake, uncovered, at 325 degrees for 30 minutes, basting occasionally with remaining apple butter mixture. Makes 8 to 10 servings

PEPPERED BRISKET

Marinating this brisket overnight really enhances the flavor.

Trim most of the fat from the brisket. Spread the pepper on waxed paper and then place the brisket on top of the pepper. Turn the brisket to coat all sides with the pepper. In a bowl combine the soy sauce, vinegar, catsup paprika and garlic. Mix well. Place brisket in a shallow dish and pour marinade over it. Cover and refrigerate overnight, turning meat occasionally. When ready to cook, line a large pan with foil. Place the brisket in the pan and pour marinade over meat. Cover with another large piece of foil and securely fold it into the bottom foil to seal. Bake at 300 to 325 for 3 to 4 hours, or until tender Serves 8.This recipe can be doubled or tripled.

CROCKPOT BRISKET WITH CRANBERRY GRAVY.

Trim excess fat from beef. Rub surface of beef with salt and pepper. Place beef in 3-1/2 quart or larger slow cooker (crockpot). In a bowl combine the cranberry sauce, tomato sauce, onion and mustard. Mix to combine and then pour the sauce over the brisket. Cover and cook on Low 10-12 hours or until beef is tender. Cool slightly and then cut across grain into thin slices. Skim the excess fat from the cranberry sauce and serve it with the brisket. Serves 8. This recipe can be made in a conventional oven. This recipe can also be doubled.

* Notes: Whole berry sauce is recommended for its appearance, but you can use jellied if you like. (I pour the juices/sauce into a container and cool in refrigerator until fat rises to the top and then using a slotted spoon I remove the fat, and then reheat juices/sauce).

BRISKET WITH PORTOBELLOS AND DRIED CRANBERRIES

Preheat oven to 300. In a bowl combine the wine, broth, cranberry juice concentrate and flour and whisk them together. Pour the mixture into a large roasting pan. Add the onion, garlic and rosemary to the mixture. Sprinkle the top of the brisket with salt and pepper. Place the brisket, fat side up, in roasting pan. Spoon some of wine mixture over top. Cover pan tightly with heavy aluminum foil (but foil shouldn't touch meat). Bake until very tender, basting with pan juices every hour, for about 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Transfer the brisket to a plate and let it cool about 1 hour at room temperature. Thinly slice brisket against grain. Arrange slices in pan with sauce overlapping slices slightly. At this point the brisket can be covered and refrigerated, if desired, up to 2 days ahead.

To serve. Preheat oven to 350. Place the mushrooms and cranberries in the sauce around brisket; cover with foil. Bake until mushrooms are tender and brisket is heated through, about 40 minutes if brisket has been refrigerated, about 25-30 minutes if room temperature. Transfer sliced brisket to platter and cover with sauce. Serves 8.

GARLIC BRISKET

This is a variation of the classic chicken with 40 cloves of garlic was given to me by my neighbor who says she cut it out of a magazine 5 years ago and hasn’t made any other recipe since.

Preheat the oven to 325. Drop the garlic into the boiling water for about 30 seconds. Drain them immediately and peel the garlic as soon as it’s cool enough to hold. Set the peeled garlic aside on paper towels to drain. In the bottom or a large roasting pan heat the olive oil over medium heat (one big enough to hold the meat in one layer). Add the brisket, and sear it on both sides, about 10 minutes. Transfer the brisket to a platter and set it aside. Pour off all but about 1 tablespoon of fat remaining in the pan, and add the garlic cloves. Cook the over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic edges are just starting to turn light brown. Add the vinegar and deglaze pan, scraping up all the browned bits from the bottom with a wooden spoon. Add the broth, thyme and rosemary sprigs, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Salt and pepper the brisket to taste on, and place it in the pan, fat side up. Spoon the garlic cloves over the meat. Cover the pan with a lid or heavy duty foil and place the brisket in the oven. Cook, basting every half-hour, until meat is fork tender, 2 1/2 - 3 hours or longer. (As the meat cooks, check to make sure that liquid is only bubbling gently. If the boil is too rapid, the temperature is too high and you need to turn it down. to about 300). Transfer the brisket to a cutting board and tent it loosely with foil. Prepare the gravy.

Strain the sauce, saving the garlic but discarding the thyme and rosemary sprigs. Skim as much of the fat as possible from the liquid. Puree about one-half of the cooked garlic and 1 cup liquid in a food processor or a blender. Transfer the pureed mixture, the remaining liquid, and the rest of the cooked garlic to a skillet. Add the remaining chopped rosemary and minced garlic and the lemon zest. Boil down the gravy over high heat, uncovered until slightly thickened. Season to taste. You can puree all of the cooked garlic if you prefer a really smooth gravy.

Cut the brisket into thin slices across the grain. Serve on a platter with a little of the sauce poured over the top. Pass the rest of the sauce to serve with the brisket. Serves 6 to 8.

APPLE GLAZED BEEF BRISKET

This beef brisket is glazed with apple jelly and brown mustard and is perfect for any Yom Tov table.

Place the brisket, onion, garlic and cloves in a large heavy saucepan. Add water to cover and bring the mixture to a boil. Immediately reduce the temperature to a simmer and cook for 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until beef is tender. Drain the meat. Preheat oven to 325. In a sauce pan combine the apple jelly, mustard, green onions, salt, pepper and curry powder. Bring the mixture to a boil. Place the drained beef in large roasting or baking dish. Brush the top of the brisket with glaze. Bake for 45 minutes, basting often. Remove the brisket from the oven and let cool enough to slice. Cut across the grain. Serve immediately, Serves 8 to 10.

Eileen Goltz, a professional chef and caterer, is the author of the new cookbook, Perfectly Pareve.