For starters, the color and flavor of honey differ depending on the bees' nectar source (the blossoms). In fact, there are more than 300 unique kinds of honey in the United States and even more available throughout the world, coming from such diverse floral sources as clover, eucalyptus and orange blossom. In general, lighter colored honeys are mild in flavor; while darker honeys are usually more robust in flavor.

Most of us know honey as a sweet, golden liquid. But, in fact, honey can be found in a variety of forms. There's liquid honey that is free of visible crystals. Liquid honey is extracted from the honeycomb by centrifugal force, gravity or straining. While all honey will crystallize in time, creme honey (also known as spun honey, sugared honey or whipped honey) is sold in a crystallized state. The crystallization is controlled so that, at room temperature, the honey can be spread like butter. In many homes around the world creme honey is preferred to the liquid form. Finally there is comb honey. This is honey that comes as it was produced--in the honeybees' wax comb. The comb, as well as the honey, is edible.

Cooking with honey is always a good thing. Not just because we're supposed to incorporate honey into our lives at certain specific times of the year but because honey is really a very healthy ingredient. Because of its high fructose content, honey has a higher sweetening power than sugar. This means you can use less honey than sugar to achieve the sweetness you desire. This translates into fewer calories. To substitute honey for sugar in recipes, start by substituting up to half of the sugar called for. With a little experimentation, honey can replace all the sugar in some recipes. When baking with honey, remember the following:

Reduce any liquid called for by 1/4 cup for each cup of honey used.

Add l/2 teaspoon baking soda for each cup of honey used. Reduce oven temperature by 25° F to prevent over-browning. When measuring honey, coat the measuring cup with non-stick cooking spray or vegetable oil before adding the honey. The honey will slide right out.

Always store it at room temperature; never in the refrigerator. If your honey becomes cloudy, don't worry. It's just crystallization, a natural process. Place your honey jar in warm water until the crystals disappear. If you're in a hurry, place it in a microwave-safe container and heat it in the microwave on HIGH for 2-3 minutes, stirring every 30 seconds. Remember, never boil or scorch honey.

One final note, honey should not be fed to infants less than one year of age.

This year, let honey lend its sweetness of tradition to some not-so-traditional recipes. Once you've set such a sweet precedent for the New Year you'll want to use these honey recipes all year round:

HONEY LIME SALMON (fish)

In cup, mix honey, cumin, coriander, salt, lime peel, pepper, and 1 teaspoon very hot water until blended. With tweezers, remove any bones from salmon. With hands, rub honey-spice mixture all over salmon. Place salmon on grill over medium heat and cook 10 minutes or just until salmon turns opaque throughout and flakes easily when tested with a fork, carefully turning salmon over once with wide metal spatula. You can pan fry the salmon if you don't want to use the grill. Sprinkle salmon with cilantro and serve with lime wedges. Serves 4. This can be doubled or tripled. This is wonderful served with cole slaw.

CINNAMON HONEY CHICKEN (meat)

In a bowl mix together all marinade ingredients. Arrange chicken pieces in a single layer in a shallow, non-aluminum, ovenproof pan, (or, use a zip-lock, and then transfer before cooking) Refrigerate overnight, turning pieces occasionally.

Preheat oven to 350. Place the chicken in a baking pan and bake chicken uncovered 40-50 minutes, turning once or twice. Or, bake a shorter time and then broil until done for crispy skin. Serves 6. This can be doubled or tripled.

HONEY CHOCOLATE BARS (dairy)

Heat cereal in a shallow pan in 350 oven for 10 minutes. While this is heating, bring honey to simmer over low heat, or (microwave) in a buttered dish. Remove the honey from the heat and the add chips and cereal. Stir until well coated. Pat into an 8 x 10 inch pan (or similar) that has been coated with a vegetable spray and refrigerate. Cut into squares when well chilled. Makes 20 - 2 -inch squares.

CHOCOLATE DIPPED HONEY COOKIES (dairy or pareve)

In a mixing bowl beat the eggs until they are light in color. Mix in the sugar. Next add the butter and honey and blend well. Add flour, soda, salt and cinnamon and mix well. Drop by teaspoonfuls on greased baking sheets. Bake at 350 for 13 to 15 minutes or until brown around the edges. DO NOT OVER COOK. Let the cookies cool and then dip half of cookie in melted chocolate; place the dipped cookie on waxed paper and then refrigerate. 6 to 7 dozen cookies.

FRESH FRUIT SALAD WITH HONEY RUM DRESSING (pareve)

In a small saucepan, combine all the dressing ingredients. Heat just to boiling and then remove from heat. Cool to room temperature.

In medium bowl, combine the fruit. Pour dressing over fruit mixture; toss lightly. Refrigerate 1 hour to blend flavors, tossing occasionally. NOTES: You can add melons, grapes, peaches, apricots, or whatever is in season, or change the fruit mix. Rum: If you like the "real thing". This recipe can be modified, through trial and error, using regular rum. I would try the light rum and not the dark. Serves 6. This can be doubled or tripled.

HONEY MUSTARD MAYONNAISE (pareve)

In a bowl combine all the ingredients and mix thoroughly. Makes 1 cup.

DIPS AND SAUCES AND BUTTERS

Honey Cocoa Dip - Combine 1 cup non-fat sour cream, 1/2 cup each honey and unsweetened cocoa powder, and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Cover mixture and refrigerate. Serve as a dip with fruit and chunks of angel food cake.

Cherry Champagne Sauce - Reserve 1/4 cup liquid from 1 can (16 oz.) of tart red cherries. Puree cherries in blender; add reserved liquid and 1/4 cup honey. In large saucepan, bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes or until mixture is reduced by half. Cool; stir in 1/4 cup chilled champagne. Serve over custard, sliced fruit or ice cream.

Honey Rum Sauce - In small bowl, blend 1/2 cup creme honey, 3 Tablespoons heavy cream and 1 Tablespoon dark rum (or 1 teaspoon rum flavoring). Stir in 1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts. Refrigerate in airtight container. Serve over ice cream or frozen yogurt.

HONEY FRUIT SPREAD

In a food processor combine all ingredients. Mix well but make sure that you don't puree everything. You want some small pieces. Makes about 3/4 cup

HONEY HAZELNUT SPREAD

In a mixing bowl cream together the honey and butter. Stir in hazelnuts by hand. Makes about 1-1/4 cups.

* Roast hazelnuts in flat pan at 325°F 15 minutes or until skins blister and nuts are lightly colored. Cool slightly; rub between palms of hands or with clean towel to remove skins.

SPICED HONEY BUTTER

In a mixing bowl combine all the ingredients; mix well. Makes about 3/4 cup.

Eileen Goltz, a professional chef and caterer, is the author of the new cookbook, Perfectly Pareve.