Recipes for Shabbat

Ode to a Squash

SQUASH AND GOURDS AND PUMPKINS I SEE
TURBAN AND BUTTERNUT AND ZUCCHINI

SO MANY SHAPES AND WAYS TO PREPARE
SO ON WITH THE RECIPES, I'M HAPPY TO SHARE

North American Indians baked winter squash in hot ashes and sweetened them with maple syrup or honey and thank goodness they shared the recipe with the early settlers. Today the winter squash is a fall staple on tables across the country and while the pumpkin is the most well know of all the fall and winter squashes it is merely the tip of the iceberg when it comes to what's available in grocery stores and farm stands today. There are dozens and dozens of varieties all with their own unique shape, size and taste and in many case they can be used interchangeably with whatever recipes takes our fancy.

Squash, in general, is a great source of fiber, vitamins A, C, iron and calcium. Winter squash is more difficult to select than summer squash because defects are not as apparent. However, choosing a squash that is heavy for its size is a good indicator of quality. That means greater moisture and less of a tendency to be dry and stringy. Shells should be hard with no cracks or soft spots but the skin should not be shiny. Winter squash should also be true to its color. Butternut squash that is deep orange instead of light tan on the outside, for example, should be avoided. Winter squash should not be refrigerated unless cut. Two pounds of winter squash, when peeled and trimmed, will yield about 4 cups chopped or 4 servings.

More commonly, the squash is steamed or baked, unpeeled. For an acorn squash, for example, halve lengthwise, remove the seeds and put it, cut side down in a shallow baking ban with a 1/2-inch of water. It will be cooked in a 375 oven in about 45 to 55 minutes, depending on size. Steaming takes about the same amount of time. But microwaving (uncovered at full power) about 10 minutes. Winter squash is not usually peeled before cooking though there is no reason why it can't be. The best way to accomplish this is to take a butternut squash, for example, halve it lengthwise, and then put it cut side down on a work surfaced. Peel the skin with a sturdy vegetable peeler. For rounder squash, leaving them whole makes more sense before peeling. Just make sure the pumpkin is stable. If not, cut a slice off from the bottom to keep it from rolling.

Once peeled, halve the squash and remove the seeds and any stringy fiber. Then halve again and cut into cubes or other desired shapes for steaming, boiling or baking. Seasonings for winter squash are similar to what goes well with sweet potatoes - brown sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, clove and ginger (fresh, powdered or candied). Cooked garlic adds a nutty mellowness and Chinese five-spice powder an exotic note. The exception is spaghetti squash, which, in many ways, can be treated like pasta with the same kinds of sauces, especially tomato sauce.

SQUASH GUIDE

The Turban squash have a buttery flavor and a slightly floral aroma The Hubbard has a thing orange pulp and it's similar in flavor to acorn The Buttercup is also similar to the acorn squash. It is slightly larger and rounder The Spaghetti squash, when cooked the inside of this squash really does resemble spaghetti, The Acorn squash has a soft golden color flesh with a sweet flavor The Butternut squash has a very subtle sweet flavor.

CURRIED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP (meat)
This is a very delicious and delicate soup.

In a large soup pot over medium heat, heat olive or vegetable oil. Add onion and sauté until golden brown. Add garlic, curry powder, cumin, and cayenne pepper; cook, stirring constantly, 30 seconds. Add squash, chicken broth, water and apples. Bring liquid to a boil; reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, 25 minutes or until squash is tender. Remove from heat and cool 15 to 20 minutes. Puree mixture in a blender or food processor, in batches, and transfer back into soup pot. Season with salt and pepper. NOTE: At this point, soup may be refrigerated until ready to serve. To serve, warm over low heat, stirring until hot. Remove from heat and serve in soup bowls. Makes 6 servings.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH LASAGNA (dairy)
This rich, creamy, unusual lasagna will be a hit on your table The time taken to put it together is well-worth it!

Take the butternut squash and peel, seed, and cut it into 1/2-inch chunks. Cook the lasagna noodles according to package directions. Preheat oven to 450. In a large bowl, toss the butternut squash chunks with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon salt, then place the chunks in a single layer on a large cookie sheet. Roast the squash chunks for 30 minutes or until they're easily pierced with a fork, stirring after 15 minutes. Remove chunks from the oven and mash squash with a food processor (or fork or potato masher) until almost smooth; set aside. Lower the oven temperature to 375. In a large Dutch oven or saucepot, over medium heat melt together the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the chopped onion and cook for about 10 minutes or until golden, stirring often; add the spinach and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook until the spinach is wilted
and the liquid evaporates, which will take about 7 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. In a large saucepan, melt the remaining butter over medium heat. Whisk in the flour, pepper, garlic salt, nutmeg, thyme, and sage and cook for 1 minute while stirring constantly. Gradually whisk in the milk until smooth and cook the sauce over medium-high heat until it boils and thickens slightly, stirring frequently. Boil for an additional 2 minutes while stirring, then whisk in all but 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese.

Remove the saucepan from heat. In a 13" x 9" glass lasagna pan, spoon about 1/2 cup of the white sauce to cover the bottom of the pan. Arrange 4 cooked lasagna noodles over the sauce, overlapping to fit; evenly spread all of the spinach mixture over the noodles, top with about 1 cup white sauce, and sprinkle with about a 1/4 cup of mozzarella cheese. Arrange 4 lasagna noodles on top, then about 1 cup white sauce and all butternut squash chunks, then a 1/4 cup of mozzarella cheese. Top with remaining lasagna noodles, remaining white sauce, sprinkle with the chopped green onions and the remaining mozzarella cheese; sprinkle with the reserved 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese. Cover the lasagna pan with foil and bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for an additional 10 minutes or until hot and bubbly; let lasagna cool for 10 minutes before cutting, for easier serving.
Makes 8 to 10 servings.

SQUASH WITH ORANGE SAUCE (Pareve or dairy)
A tangy sauce that enhances the mild taste of the squash.

Preheat oven to 350. Place squash pieces, cut side up, in a large baking pan.

Cover and bake for one hour. For the sauce, in a small saucepan, combine the thawed orange juice concentrate, margarine or butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Heat until margarine is melted. Remove from heat. Pour the sauce in squash shells and return squash to oven. Bake, uncovered, about 35 minutes more or until squash is tender. Remove the squash from the oven, place them on the serving dish, sprinkle the top with the almonds and garnish with tangerine or orange slices. Serves 8.

RED ONION AND ALMOND STUFFED WINTER SQUASH (Pareve or dairy)
An appetizing preparation, this will invigorate the winter-worn palate.

The squashes may be baked in the oven or microwave. If you are going to use the oven, preheat it to 375. Cut the squashes in half lengthwise. Place the halves in a baking dish, cut side up, with about 1/2 inch of water, and cover with foil. Bake until easily pierced with a knife but still holding their shape, 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the type and size of squash used.

Or microwave, using as a rule of thumb 4 to 7 minutes each for each squash. Test occasionally to make sure they don't get overcooked. When the squashes are cool enough to handle, scoop out and discard the seeds.

Scoop out the pulp and transfer to a mixing bowl, leaving a sturdy shell of about 1/4 inch thick all around. Heat the margarine in a medium skillet. Add the onion and saute over medium heat until golden. Add the almonds and continue to saute until they give off a toasty aroma. Combine the onion mixture with the squash pulp. Add the ginger, season with salt and pepper, and stir together. Stuff back into the squash shells. Reheat in the microwave or oven, just until heated through, and serve. Serves 4

CORN CHOWDER IN MINI PUMPKIN SHELLS (meat)
Whimsical little pumpkins filled with a cream soup make a perfect starter on Thanksgiving.

With a small sharp knife, cut wide tops out of the pumpkins to make bowl-shaped shells. Scrape out and discard seeds and stringy pulp. Trim all but 1/4 inch of meat from tops. Using a knife and soupspoon, cut and scrape out some of the pumpkin meat, leaving a 3/8-inch-thick shell. Shells should have about a 3/4-cup capacity.) Chop the pumpkin meat and set aside.

Microwave Directions: Place the breakfast beef in a 2-quart microwave-safe dish. Microwave at "high" (100%) for 1 minute and 45 seconds to 2 minutes, or until crisp, stirring twice. Remove the breakfast beef and set aside. Add the onion and chopped pumpkin meat to the dish. Cover with the lid or vented heavy-duty plastic wrap and microwave at "high" for 2 minutes, or until soft. Stir in the flour and chili powder, then the chicken broth. Microwave, covered, at "high" for 5 minutes, or until the pumpkin is very soft. Meanwhile, pour boiling water into the pumpkin shells to warm them. Mash the pumpkin mixture with a fork to a coarse puree. Add the corn and soy milk. Microwave at "high" for 1 to 2 minutes, or until thoroughly heated. Stovetop Directions: Saute the breakfast beef in a saucepan for 3 minutes, or until crisp. Remove the breakfast beef and set aside. Add the onion and chopped pumpkin meat to the saucepan. Saute over medium heat until tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the flour and chili powder, then the chicken broth. Cook for 5 minutes more, or until the pumpkin is very soft.

Meanwhile, pour boiling water into the pumpkin shells to warm them. Mash the pumpkin mixture with a fork to a coarse puree. Add the corn and soy milk. Continue to cook until thoroughly heated. Empty and dry the pumpkin shells. Fill with the chowder. Sprinkle the breakfast beef on top and garnish with parsley, if desired. Serve at once.

Eileen Goltz, a professional chef and caterer, is the author of the new cookbook, Perfectly Pareve.